Wednesday, October 8, 2008

"Poppies... poppies.... poppies will put them to sleep..."

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3 countries in one photo

(us standing in Thailand with the Mekong River behind us and Burma to the left side and Laos to the right)


Golden Triangle


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Entering the legendary "Golden Triangle"

The Golden Triangle is the area where the borders of Thailand, Laos and Myanmar (formerly Burma) meet and is famous for being the former second largest producer in the world of opium. (The first is Afghanistan.) The area has been growing poppies and distributing the products of them since the 1600s along with spices and other resources.

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While Laos and Myanmar are still large producers of opium, Thailand has reported a greater than 95% reduction in production due mostly to the King's crop-substition programs (at least according to the Hall of Opium Museum). While we had visited one 0f the Royal Projects in Chiang Mai, the changes that he was implementing were most impressive here - launching and promoting the change of the hill-tribes' crops to legalized products such as coffee, tea, fruit, fish, and generalized farming.


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Walking along the Mekong river front in Chiang Saen.


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Local "taxi" rank

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Massage stalls along the riverfront


Golden Triangle State Fair at Sop Ruak

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Just kidding, of course. Not a state fair (New York style), but it had a few of the same qualities...

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The biggest golden buddha in 4 countries


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Pay & pose elephant caravan

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Buddha on a boat

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And the "Feed the Happy Buddha, Get a Blessing" game (so much better than just chucking all your quarters into a bucket to win a goldfish!)


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Sucker # 1

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Sucker # 2


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"You can feed me baht, but I prefer US dollars. :)"

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Views of the "Golden Triangle" from the lookout. Yes, it's got the big Golden Triangle sign and a view, so it's a must see. Unfortunately, there really isn't anything else here but GT paraphernalia. The viewpoint is a can't miss.

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A boat that looked like it was doing a runner for Myanmar. In theory, that's pretty unlikely to be the case (unless, of course, it's full of backpackers that can't afford the crazy visa fee to get in). Myanmar isn't signing up for lots of tourists based on their strict entry and stay restrictions. They kept us out this time...

Four Seasons Tented Camp - Golden Triangle

http://www.fourseasons.com/goldentriangle/

As Wiwat had worked for the Four Seasons for many years, he used one of his connections to take us to see the fantastic Four Seasons Tented Camp. An exclusive 5-star (or 6 or 7-star for all I know), this place was amazing. Definitely not a place we could have stayed at unless our one year holiday was cut short to 2 weeks. (Our regular nightly accommodation was ~400 baht per night as compared to the 70,000 baht per night!)

With only 15 luxury tents and boat access only via the Ruak River (as far as the guests are concerned), it is luxurious and the dream Golden Triangle experience. It screams of luxury from another time. I'm not sure we were dressed for it.

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Enjoying a fresh coconut juice

After explaining a bit to us about the hotel, the management style and guest services available, he took us for a tour of the lush grounds. My personal favorite was his story about the family of ducks that he had to train to follow him around, but they weren't always up for believing that he was mama. So funny.

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Everything was so green & lush


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Yes, we took lots of photos.

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The gorgeous, monstrous lily pads that apparently took over the pond and killed all the very expensive fish.

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The fantastic bamboo fencing lining every single pathway that has to be rebuilt every single year. Durability and longevity are not amongst its best features, but it looked good.


We got to take a closer look at the Butterfly Tent...

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I'm wondering if this can be my bedroom...

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and adjoining suite with copper freestanding bathtub.....

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and his and hers sinks with faux elephant tusk faucet handles.

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Butterflies, butterflies


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Checking out the private balcony with individual spa baths

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The serene view from the balcony

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The room service bell


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"Are you sure we have to leave?"


Hall of Opium

As much as we didn't really want to rush out, Wiwat's friend (damn it, I can't remember his name!) insisted that we couldn't miss the Hall of Opium museum. As we were getting to late afternoon, we made a run for it immediately, and being the full-service tour guide that he was, Wiwat did about 120 kph down the windy dirt path through the jungle to get us there before it closed. Yikes!! ;)

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Former poppy field?

And we weren't let down. They must have used some of the heroin income to build this museum, because it was really impressive and moving. Over 5000 years long, the history of the opium trade was really interesting, including discussing how the tea trade started with the British empire.


While many people associate all poppies with opiates, of the over 500 varieties, only the Papaver somniferum species of poppy is grown to produce opium (and poppy seeds). A side note: while poppy seeds can give a false positive on a drug test, you cannot actually get the opiate effects from eating them. I was hoping that they would have a nice big field of poppies (not necessarily of the opium variety) to get the feel of it, but they didn't. It would've been a nice touch though.

Another interesting fact: as opium was so highly addictive, heroin (named after "heroic")was produced by Bayer Pharmaceuticals as a nonaddictive form of morphine & opium. Hmmm, interesting thought, but I'm thinking they missed the mark there.

The entire last section of the museum is entirely focused on all the negatives of opium. Definitely a good "Say No to Drugs" message there.

The final word: our measly hour and a half there didn't do it justice. At least a full day would have been better.