The beginning of our Patagonian adventure was in the little town of Punta Arenas. Pretty damn close to the very bottom. (Just a couple kilometers shy of Tierra del Fuego - the little piece of land, just before you hit Antarctica.)
Punta Arenas is also the main town where you can get the famous boat cruise to Antarctica (I'm sure that you all remember the one that sank in January). If only our budget stretched just a little further.... Antartica is a pretty pricey add on!
There isn't much else to tell about our 3 days in Punta - we rested after the long flights from Rio (and Carnaval partying), we ate, slept and caught up on some internet stuff before heading off on our big adventure to Parque Nacional Torres del Paine!!
Punta Arenas is also the main town where you can get the famous boat cruise to Antarctica (I'm sure that you all remember the one that sank in January). If only our budget stretched just a little further.... Antartica is a pretty pricey add on!
There isn't much else to tell about our 3 days in Punta - we rested after the long flights from Rio (and Carnaval partying), we ate, slept and caught up on some internet stuff before heading off on our big adventure to Parque Nacional Torres del Paine!!
From Punta Arenas, our tour operator Cascada Expediciones picked us up, taking us through Puerto Natales on our way to our first stop in Parque Nacional Torres del Paine.... the Eco Camp at Las Torres. We specifically chose Cascada because we would be spending several days at this unique campsite, rather than in a refugio (hotel/lodge) or camping. It just seemed like the thing to do. (I have included the link to see the website which is quite cool.)
It was an amazing little village! While it is all in the Nacional Park, all of the land is privately owned by 2 different individuals, so there are lots of restrictions. Basically, the Eco-camp is an environmentally friendly, semi-permanent structure. The sanitation is a composting system, and the water all comes from one of the melting glaciars. The electricity for the camp is also generated by the water flow. Easy. The entire village is built on top of a wooden planks and walkways so that it doesn´t damage the grass and plants underneath. Also, the entire village is taken down every winter and set back up, possibly in another spot every spring (2 weeks for breakdown & 2 more for setup).
Our individual ¨tents¨ were just like little igloos, with really sturdy construction because the area is really, really windy. They have metal frames inside that are able to withstand up to 240 kph winds. (And let me tell, we did feel some strong wind!) But as you went inside, there were hardwood floors and proper beds with fleece sheets to keep you warm. That´s right, not flannel, but thick fleece that felt like you were crawling into a big cushy jacket at night.
One afternoon while relaxing in in the sunshine, we had a couple visitors looking for a snack.
As there was often a little bit of a mist in the air somewhere in the area, we saw lots and lots of rainbows. I probably should have counted as, between Chilean and Argentinean Patagonia, the number might have rivalled the amount that I´ve seen in the rest of my life combined!
After our first night at eco camp, I felt inspired to get up for sunrise, crawl out of our igloo into the cold and catch a glimpse of the magnificent colours shining on Los Torres. What a beautiful view and a gorgeous way to start the W trek (and beginning of 2 weeks of hiking in total)!!
Hiking Day # 1 - Ecocamp to Los Cuernos
After a luxurious breakfast in the dining ïgloo (I´m starting to think this isn´t the budget tour), we took off on our first hike from th Eco camp to el Refugio Los Cuernos (literally "The Horns" Refugio).
After a luxurious breakfast in the dining ïgloo (I´m starting to think this isn´t the budget tour), we took off on our first hike from th Eco camp to el Refugio Los Cuernos (literally "The Horns" Refugio).
Our first day of hiking was a very pleasant 4-5 hour walk beside Lake Nordenskjold. Although we were told that this area could be quite windy, we had a very nice, sunny day with mild wind to help us keep cool.
Lago NordenskjoldBefore long we could look up and see Los Cuernos (Paine's giant slate horns) spiking up from the massif above us.
Los Cuernos
The view of a glaciar that we saw along the way.Before long, we arrived at El Refugio Los Cuernos - a group of cozy little cabins where we were upgraded to individual cabins instead of the usual 6 bed dorm. We had ¨the honeymoon suite¨- the cabin right next to the waterfall. Between the waterfall and the view of the lake from the room, this is a lovely place to relax after a nice hike.
The cabins.
The view of the lake from the Refugio.
Feeling a little inspired by the view and the fresh air do a bit of yoga...After a little writing in our journals, a yummy meal and a bottle of chilean red, we had a cozy night in our cabin.
Hiking Day # 2- French Valley to el Refugio Paine Grande
After brekkie, we set off on what we were told would be a pretty tough day of hiking (22-30km) into the French Valley. However, the plan seemed to change fairly early on as it started drizzling and it was quite cloudy. So what was meant to be a day filled with outstanding views of Paine Grande was highlighted by some cloudy view of glaciars.
We had a nice lunch, took a few pictures of the glaciars and then decided that doing the longer hike for fantastic views wasn't worth it if there was no view to be had through the clouds... so we decided to start making our way to Refugio Paine Grande.
Refugio Paine Grande on the shores of the turquoise waters of Lago Pehoe
As we were walking to the refugio, I was going on and on about having a shower, then maybe a little yoga and journaling until... the sign at the front read ¨Happy Hour - 2 for 1 red wine¨. Kyle, change of plans... Our friends Jill & Barry were a bit better than us as they managed to meditate first, but someone had to hold a table and buy the first found. $5 USD for a bottle of Chilean Red Wine... Bargain!
After we drank down their stock, we headed down for a yummy dinner of pork and mash. Knowing that we had an early start and had probably way too much wine already, we all headed back to our room... our shared room. It was my first dorm room experience. 5 of us from our group all shared the room. Kyle and I always use our earplugs, so I think we were ready for it, but low and behold, Emil, the German gentleman on our hike and champion hiker, turned out to be a champion snorer as well and kept everyone else up for some part of the night. I guess it´s a good thing that I´m a trashbag, as I was the only one (including Kyle) who actually slept well. Haha, well red wine does actually have a real benefit sometimes!
The view of Paine Grande that we woke up to. We just couldn´t believe that with all the clouds the day before, you couldn´t even tell there was a mountain there!Hiking Day # 3 - From Paine Grande to Glaciar Grey
After waking up to the amazing view of Paine Grande, we had a beautiful sunny walk from Lago Pehoe to Lago Grey with the Glaciar Grey at the far end.
Our friends Barry & Jill with the first sightings of the Southern ice field and the Andes in the distance.
Taking in the sites on one of our snack breaks
Enjoying a beautiful, sunny day of hiking toward the glaciar
A beautiful view from above of part of the Grey Glacier
After hiking to the lakes edge and eating a bite of lunch, we hopped onto a zodiac boat which took us out to the boat waiting to tour us around the lake. Before boarding, our guide Eduardo told us that we were all required to wear life jackets on board... and I quote "It´s the company´s rule, but the water is so cold, that you wouldn´t survive if you fell in anyway. It just helps them locate the body..." Hmmm, interesting sense of humour. Must not fall in...
I will apologize in advance for all the photos of the glaciar, but I just thought it was amazing!! We hiked on a glaciar in New Zealand, but this just seemed so much bigger and incredible. If my memory serves me correctly, this particular glaciar is 19 km long and 5km wide and 60 meters high. I was in awe!!
A look at the right half of the glacier.
And the left half of the glacier...
A closer look at the the front with Paine Grande behind it.
One of the bigger icebergs floating in the water near the boat.
I was actually freezing my ass off, but the view (and the pisco sour) helped to numb that pain.And some close-ups of the glacier. As the snow becomes compressed, it becomes ice. And over time, as the ice grows thicker and taller, the ice becomes more dense with the weight and pressure. You can see in the photos below how the ice becomes darker and darker blue as it gets closer to the water.
After enjoying the glacier for awhile, the cruise took us to the opposite side of the lake, although I was so wiped out from all of the excitement that I fell asleep in the cabin for the rest of it. I needed a nana nap! Once we reached the far end of the lake, we did a very short hike to our waiting shuttle bus and 2-3 hour drive back to Ecocamp.
A nice view of the lake and the very wobbly floating dock that we were dropped of at in the zodiac boats.
A nice view of the lake and the very wobbly floating dock that we were dropped of at in the zodiac boats.
A natural bridge that connects one shore of the lake to the other. While it never completely disappears, it narrows or widens depending on temperature. Our guide said that just 2 weeks before it was very narrow. There must have been a big melt.
A view in the distance of our boat.
During our drive back to ecocamp, we took in some of the sights including the turquoise waters of Lake Pehoe.
Isn't that water just the most beautiful color ever?We returned back to our comfy igloos for a hearty dinner, a couple glasses of wine and a restful nights sleep before our big day of hiking.... to the magnificent Torres del Paine.
Hiking Day # 4 - The trek to the famous Torres del Paine (Blue Towers) - 22 km
We walked from the camp site along the winding, uphill path to Ascencio Valley – the valley which supports the eastern face of the Towers’ base. The trail was lined with beech forests and small rivers as we walked into the valley.
Sporting my favorite hiking gear, topped off with my lucky bandana. Kyle said I looked like some badass hiking chick, and I should be the guide. Haha. Don't think so, but for some reason, the braids help me focus. Maybe I stimulated the neurons by tying too tight!
As we came up out of the valley, we were shocked how windy it was!! One of our guides predicted 120-130kph!!! We actually had to stop walking, make sure everything on us was secure and just stand still and wait it out so we didn't get blown over the cliff. (I would have taken a video.... but I thought better of it in this circumstance.)
A look back down the moraine
While it was a long hike, it wasn't too challenging except for the final part... the moraine. It's mass of boulders that you must climb up for about 1 hour before getting to the viewpoint for las Torres del Paine. The moraine is quite steep, but a pretty fun climb. Our guide did warn us to stay on "the marked trail" (the tiny little arrow that appeared every 50 meters, as an Irish climber went off trail, fell and died just the month before...) No worries, I will not be leaving the trail.
When we reached the top, Las Torres suddenly came into full view with an amazing glacial lake at the base. It was magnificent, but also very cold. I guess that what you should expect when you're climbing to higher elevation with glaciers and glacial lakes with icebergs floating in them everywhere.
Enoying the view we worked so hard to see.
Me and a picture of the Foof in the End of the World!
Our fabulous guides Eduardo and Carla (his girlfriend and first-time assistant).
Kyle bundled up after a bit of lunch. (It seemed like a good day to wear shorts...)
Once we had enjoyed the view and some lunch (and were nearly on the verge of freezing), we backtracked along the same trail through Ascencio Valley, and returning to the EcoCamp.
Barry crossing one of the many bridges in the park. All the signs said "One person at a time", and none of us were going to test it and find out what happens...
The stunning view of Lago Pehoe that we saw on our drive back to ecocamp.
Los Cuernos
In front of one of the beautiful lakes. It's hard to remember which one as there were so many.
How "the look" had changed by the end of the day...
Hiking Day # 5 - Animal spotting & waterfalls
After hauling our asses up to see the Towers, everyone was pretty wiped out and ready for a little break. Lucky us, the weather didn't want us to have an early start either... it was pissing down, so we got to take our time heading out. And Eduardo decided it wasn't a good idea to do the short little hikes that he had planned. Bummer... oh well, next time.
We did have nice drive around though and did some animal spotting.
We saw lots of ganacos (similar to llamas).
There were lots of babies too!
One of the ostrichs roaming around.
A ganaco that didn't fare so well.
A condor hunting next to the shuttle.
A raging river...
which led to a beautiful waterfall.
One of the crazy bridges that we crossed during our journey. It was so narrow that the side mirrow had to be folded in to make it through (with centimeters to spare), and we all had to get out and walk across the bridge (as it couldn´t support the weight all at once)! But it does the job... keeps all the big tourist buses out!
And the best part of the day... the traditional chilean lamb barbecue. So, so good.
Another beautiful view. Every view is beautiful.
And just a dash of colour... chilean firebush.
Still smiling at the end, and off to hike Argentinian Patagonia!
And a PS - an honorable mention of our favorite restaurant in Punta Arenas called La Luna (that we went to before starting the trekking). It had nice ambiance, a wall lined with wine and a very yummy king crab "chup". Highly recommend it! 
